We always have presses and fixed cup tools on hand and ready to ship.
Cotters installed with a press are much less likely to loosen up than those intalled by just tapping with a hammer and tightening the nut on the cotter threads.
Removing with a press is much less likely to damage your cranks, the cotter or your bearings, than using a hammer. (See Caveat below.)New "Deep Throat" design allows you to orient the press in line with the crank arm for removal of cotters. Holding the tool inline with the arm allows the cupped bolt end to center itself exactly on the center of the threaded stem of the cotter.
The previous design, like the Park Tools press before it, had to be at an angle to the arm. This was rarely a problem and the vast majority of cotters were popped right out. But if a cotter was stuck far more tightly than usual, the high force needed could bend the stem, if applied slightly off-center.
Unfortunately the new design requires more machining and is made from wider bar stock, so I had to raise the price.
Presses are machined from oil finished, cold rolled 1018 steel. The stainless steel bolts are 1/2" x 20tpi for durability and so either 3/4" or 19mm wrenches will work on the hex.
If you are working on old English bikes, or cheap box store
bikes like Magnas, for $20 you may also be
interested in this
Fixed Cup Tool.
Multi-Task ToolMost presses are used to install and remove bicycle crank cotters. But people (Usually Australians for some reason.) have purchased them for other purposes.
I also sell a special version with a wider slot, for cotters larger than 10mm, such as the rectagular tapered ones sometimes found on antique "Ordinaries".
As you predicted, press arrived Wed. I immediately popped the cotters out of an old Dunelt. Very nice work. However, I suggest you should add a warning to those of us used to attempting removal by C-clamp and bushing (or socket), then heat when that doesn't work!
Warning might read:
Installed properly, there should be enough friction between the spindle and bore to eliminate movement. The cotter will only be loaded in compression, evenly across the face, and be easily removed.
Without this friction, the only thing resisting movement will be the relatively soft cotter, loaded in shear. When you see grooves across the cotter face, either the cotter wasn't tight enough, there was grease between the spindle and the bore or both.
1. Avoid chromed spindles. Sandblasting or sandpaper can help if you don't have a choice.
2. Make sure spindle and spindle bore are clean and dry.
3. Use anti-seize or grease on cotter.
4. Install FIRMLY with a cotter press. As you tighten the cotter, the wrench will move smoothly and with gradually increasing resistance, till you get to a point where force required to move the wrench suddenly increases. That's when you stop.
When installing cotters, I suggest holding your wrench with your thumb near the bolt head, to keep you from applying too much leverage. This tool is so powerful that one fellow mushroomed the fat end of a cotter.
Years after tourists had alloy cotterless cranks, most professional racers were still using cottered cranks. If they were not reliable this would not have been the case.
With a press, nearly every cotter with a 7mm stem and most with 6mm stems can be removed in one piece. Unless someone has bent the threaded section, by trying a hammer first.
However, there are a few where the threaded stem will
crush without budging the cotter.
I believe those have suffered galvanic corrosion (or some such). Your odds of a successful removal are much better if the cotter was installed properly.
S&H $7 in the US